The Archaeology of the Skerries (Ynysoedd y Moelrhoniaid), north Wales

On 19 April, Royal Commission Investigator Dr Toby Driver accompanied an RSPB monitoring visit out to the Skerries, a small group of rocky islets off north-west Anglesey. Archaeological aerial reconnaissance had identified unrecorded earthworks surviving on the southern side of the islet. The trip was also a long overdue chance to examine the wider archaeology and built heritage of this remote islet which has seen few archaeological visitors since Douglas Hague’s trips in the early 1980s, culminating in his 1994 Royal Commission book ‘Lighthouses of Wales’.

The Skerries is dominated by its fine lighthouse, built on an outcrop at the highest point. A light was first established here after 1716, built by William Trench as a personal venture. After several different phases of work the lighthouse achieved its present appearance under Trinity House and consultant engineer James Walker, who rebuilt it in 1851. The light towers 36m above high water, and the residential block presently accommodates RSPB staff during the nesting season among a noisy colony of Artic Terns. Luckily the lighthouse was open for maintenance by Trinity House staff during the visit, allowing new photography of its interior and lantern room.

The group of buildings around the lighthouse includes the oldest separate keepers’ dwelling in the British Isles, an early eighteenth-century crow-stepped gabled cottage, and a tiny stone well-head building, both now listed. Both buildings were recorded with 360 degree photography, allowing for future 3D modelling using digital photogrammetry.

During the brief two-hour visit there was time to reconnoitre the wider islet. From the lighthouse, this is reached via a tiny cobbled footbridge across a deep chasm. Further on are the ruins of the ‘Buoy-keepers’ cottage’, a small stone shelter recorded by Hague in 1971. This sits at one end of a larger earthwork building platform identified from aerial photographs. This larger platform may be far earlier than the stone ruin, and could perhaps date to the Middle Ages when the Skerries belonged to the monks of Bangor as one of their principal fisheries. Alongside the platform stands a small stone mooring post above the beach. The vegetation across the main part of the islet is a perforated grass sward covered in rabbit holes, re-used by nesting Puffins in the spring and summer months. Other features noted during the visit included stone navigational beacons, and channels cut between freshwater pools presumably to conserve scarce drinking water in times past.

The Skerries Lighthouse seen from the boat as one approaches the landing stage. The roof of the gabled keepers’ cottage can be seen below.

The tiny gabled lighthouse keepers’ cottage, the oldest separate dwelling of its type in the British Isles.

The attractive footbridge over the chasm which separates the lighthouse from the main part of the islet.

Remains of the ‘Buoy-keepers’ cottage’, a small ruin recorded by Douglas Hague in 1971. It lies at one end of an earlier earthwork platform. Scale 1m.

Looking back towards the lighthouse from the pair of navigational markers built on Toucan rock, named on early Ordnance Survey County Series mapping. Scale 1m.

Gan Toby Driver: Aerial Investigator


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Exploring Fan Llia to Fan Dringarth with the Big Welsh Walk 2014!

Throughout May, Ramblers Cymru is holding its annual event, the Big Welsh Walk. The event aims to encourage people to get out and about walking, with a programme of group-walks around Wales. Last Saturday (3 May) the Royal Commission provided the historical expertise for an 8.5-mile walk on the Brecon uplands planned by Cadw. 25 walkers and 4 Royal Commission staff members assembled near a Roman camp on the slopes of Fan Llia, some 400m above sea level. We were led on the walk by David Leighton, the Royal Commission’s Uplands Project coordinator. This long-running project aims to survey and record archaeology on all moorland over 244m above sea level. Although some 2380 square km have been surveyed to date, this area has yet to be covered. The 8.5-mile circular walk revealed the extent and variety of archaeology existing in upland areas such as this, from prehistoric cairns through to nineteenth-century sheep folds!

The walk proceeded along the western side of Fan Llia, where we saw a group of circular and oval platforms representing the remains of a prehistoric settlement which could date to as early as 2000 BC. This is an exciting site, as there are few examples of platform groups such as this in Wales: they are better-known in the north of Britain where the majority of those excavated are Bronze Age in date.

A short distance to the north-east lie the remains of a Bronze Age burial cairn. Its centre has been robbed out and a slab on the edge of the mound is thought to have been the capstone.

David Leighton explains how the burial chamber would have looked, with upright stones defining a stone-lined burial pit and supporting a larger capstone.

We continued north, crossing the Afon Llia at Rhyd Uchaf, a ford over the Sarn Helen, an old Roman (and post-medieval turnpike) road. We then headed towards Maen Llia (NPRN 84541), one of the largest standing stones in Wales.
 

Walkers fording the Afon LLia on line of the Roman road.

Although Maen Llia reputedly bears traces of a Latin/Ogham inscription, its precise geometric relationship with nearby bronze-age monuments suggests that it is prehistoric in origin. We paused exactly 320m south-east of Maen Llia at the remains of a Bronze Age burial cairn (NPRN 84539). David Leighton explained that the cairn forms the apex of an isosceles triangle whose other two corners are formed by Maen Llia and a multi-banked Bronze Age ring barrow (NPRN 84544). Distances between the three sites have been measured by the Royal Commission and the cairn was found to be equidistant from the other two sites. Intriguingly, a platform (possibly for a structure of some kind) sitting inside this triangle of sites is equidistant from the ring barrow and Maen Llia.
 

Platform lying precisely equidistant from ring barrow and Maen Llia.

More recently, a possible recumbent standing stone (NPRN 409642) has been identified projecting from a field-bank at the current roadside to the south-west of Maen Llia. GPS readings indicate that the stone is also at the mid-point between the ring barrow and Maen Llia.

Walker standing on possible recumbent standing stone, positioned at an equal distance between Maen Llia and the Bronze Age ring barrow.

Maen Llia, measuring 3.61m high and 2.75m wide, is located at the head of a pass between Fan Llia and Fan Nedd. According to legend, at Midsummer’s eve the stone walks to the river to drink. This story could refer to the stone’s shadow, whose evening shadow reaches towards the nearby river and is, according to local people, the shape of a forked tongue.

Maen LLia, one of the largest standing stones in Wales.

Lunch was eaten overlooking the Llia Valley and much fun was had flying kites kindly supplied by Ramblers Cymru!

Looking south down the Llia Valley.

After negotiating the 500m+ upper slopes of Fan Dringarth, we made our way down to the eastern slopes of Fan Llia and followed the line of the Nant y Gaseg stream towards Ystradfellte Reservoir. There are numerous abandoned post medieval dry-stone sheep folds and other tumbled stock enclosures in the vicinity of the reservoir.

One of many abandoned folds known to have been used from the medieval period up until at least the nineteenth century, possibly built on an earlier structure.

The reservoir, constructed in 1907-14 to provide water for Neath, has the remains of a number of probable later medieval or post medieval building platforms close to its northern and western shores. Some are thought to represent seasonal dwellings, occupied in summer when cattle grazed the upland pastures.

The Royal Commission’s David Leighton and Richard Suggett (Buildings Investigator) discuss the interior layout of a probable longhouse on the reservoir’s northern shore.

Given the close proximity of the reservoir, it is likely that further remains lie under the water itself.

Remains of medieval or later longhouse bisected by the western shore of the Ystradfellte Reservoir.

From the reservoir it was a short walk back to our start-point. We all agreed that the walk was invigorating, informative and fun!

Ramblers Cymru’s annual Big Welsh Walk continues throughout May. See their website at http://www.ramblers.org.uk/wales/what-we-do/events-index/2014/may/big-welsh-walk.aspx for details.

A list of heritage walks planned by Cadw can be found on the events page of Cadw’s website at http://cadw.wales.gov.uk/events/?lang=en

 By Nikki Vousden.


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Archaeoleg yr Uwchdiroedd a Thirweddau Milwrol yng Nghymru

Ysgol undydd a drefnwyd gan y Comisiwn Brenhinol mewn partneriaeth â’r Sefydliad Isadeiledd Amddiffyn ac Ymddiriedolaeth Archaeolegol Clwyd-Powys.
9 Mai 2014. Ardal Hyfforddi Pontsenni,
Aberhonddu, Powys

Fe fydd cyfle, yn ystod cinio, i’r cynadleddwyr weld y lluniau a baentiwyd gan garcharorion rhyfel o’r Eidal a’r Almaen ar wal y Gegin yng Ngwersyll Pontsenni ym 1945-6.  Mae’r olygfa hon yn dangos Castell Heidelberg yn ne’r Almaen (DS2011_331_003).

Bydd Fforwm Archaeoleg yr Uwchdiroedd eleni’n cael ei gynnal ar Ddydd Gwener 9 Mai 2014 yng Nghanolfan y Barcud Coch, Ardal Hyfforddi Pontsenni (SENTA) ym Mhowys. Digwyddiadagored fydd hwn, wedi’i gynnal mewn partneriaeth â’r Sefydliad Isadeiledd Amddiffyn ac Ymddiriedolaeth Archaeolegol Clwyd-Powys. Yn y bore cyflwynir adroddiadau’n deillio o arolygon uwchdirol ar hyd a lled Cymru a neilltuir y prynhawn i bapurau’n ymwneud ag archaeoleg tirweddau milwrol yn uwchdiroedd Cymru. Y tâl cofrestru yw £20, sy’n cynnwys cinio eistedd i lawr, lluniaeth a mynediad.

Bydd hwn yn gyfle prin i fynychu digwyddiad yn yr ardal hyfforddi a chlywed mwy am archaeoleg Mynydd Epynt a thirweddau archaeolegol eraill yng Nghymru, ac i ymweld â safleoedd ar y maes yng nghwmni archaeolegwyr a phersonél milwrol. Fe fydd nifer cyfyngedig o leoedd, felly bwciwch yn gynnar.

Rhoddir manylion pellach am y digwyddiad a’r trefniadau bwcio ar wefan y Comisiwn Brenhinol. I gael rhagor o wybodaeth, cysylltwch â David Leighton yn david.leighton@cbhc.gov.uk neu drwy ffonio 01970 621204


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Festival of Archaeology at the Royal Commission 2013

Family fun at the Royal Commission stand

This year’s Festival of Archaeology got off to a great start on Saturday, 13 July, with two Royal Commission events in Penparcau. Throughout the afternoon, visitors flocked to the Penparcau Fête marking the 60th anniversary of Llwyn yr Eos primary school and organised by Penparcau Community Forum. While many children enjoyed special activities at the Royal Commission stand, older residents told their stories and brought old photographs to the People’s Collection Wales officers.

Residents from Penparcau enjoying some of the People's Collection Wales' photographic images of  the Silver Jubilee celebrations, 1977

 Meanwhile a group of intrepid enthusiasts braved the current heat wave to tackle the slopes of Pen Dinas hillfort under the expert guidance of Dr Toby Driver, reaching the summit to enjoy the cool sea breeze and breathtaking views.

Intrepid enthusiasts approach the summit of Pen Dinas hillfort, NPRN:92236

A breathtaking view to behold for all!

Later in the week, as another Festival of Archaeology event, the Royal Commission will be hosting an evening reception and presentation on the life and work of Falcon Hildred, the Blaenau Ffestiniog-based industrial landscape artist. Here, at the Commission’s offices in Aberystwyth, on Wednesday 17 July 6―8pm, there will be an opportunity to view original drawings and an exhibition, and enjoy a talk by Dr Peter Wakelin, Secretary of the Royal Commission on Worktown: The Drawings of Falcon Hildred. Light summer refreshments will be provided and the evening is open to all.

Two views of Pant-yr-ynn Mill  (NPRN: 28620) as drawn by Falcon Hildred

For details on other Royal Commission events for the Festival of Archaeology, please visit our web page.

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Archaeolegwyr Ifanc Aberystwyth yn ail-greu ffotograff o gloddiad yn y 1930au: Archaeolegwyr Ifanc Aberystwyth yn camu’n ôl mewn amser

Cloddwyr o Glwb yr Archaeolegwyr Ifanc ym mryngaer Pen Dinas, Aberystwyth yn 2013 (tynnwyd y llun gan  Paul Harries).

Yn ddiweddar fe gamodd Archaeolegwyr Ifanc Aberystwyth yn ôl mewn amser, bron 80 o flynyddoedd, i ail-greu golygfa hanesyddol o gloddwyr yn gweithio ar fryngaer Pen Dinas uwchben y dref, yn y blynyddoedd cyn yr Ail Ryfel Byd. Dyma’r tro cyntaf i bobl sefyll yn esgidiau archaeolegwyr y 1930au, gan wisgo dillad y cyfnod a dal offer addas, i ail-greu’r ffotograff o’r cloddio ar safle’r fryngaer a dynnwyd yn wreiddiol ar ddiwrnod o haf ym 1934.

Fel rhan o daith gerdded wedi’i harwain gan Dr Toby Driver o’r Comisiwn Brenhinol yn Aberystwyth, a drefnwyd gan John Ibbotson a Paul Harries ar ran y gangen leol o’r Archaeolegwyr Ifanc, penderfynwyd bod yn rhaid sefyll yn esgidiau’r archaeolegwyr arloesol. Gan ddilyn cyngor Anna Evans o Amgueddfa Ceredigion, cafwyd offer a dillad o gasgliad trin a thrafod gwrthrychau yr amgueddfa er mwyn creu darlun dilys a rhoi blas i’r Archaeolegwyr Ifanc ar fywyd gweithwyr lleol yn y 1930au. Roedd gwisgo crysau, trowsus dal dŵr a chapiau brethyn yn y tywydd poeth, a chario rhawiau coes hir, yn dipyn o her. Cwblhawyd y darlun gan Sam Williams, un o’r Archaeolegwyr Ifanc, a gymerodd le’r Athro Forde a oedd yn gwisgo gwasgod a thei a sbectol gron ac yn gafael mewn het Banamâ.

Mae’r ffotograff gwreiddiol i’w gael yn archif cloddiad Pen Dinas a ddelir gan Gofnod Henebion Cenedlaethol Cymru yn Aberystwyth, ac mae’n dangos yr Athro Forde yn ymweld â’r cloddwyr wrth iddynt gloddio yn un o brif byrth y fryngaer o Oes yr Haearn. Doedd hi ddim yn rhy anodd darganfod ble buont yn sefyll, ond roedd yr olygfa yn y cefndir o Lyfrgell Genedlaethol Cymru a Llanbadarn Fawr wedi newid cryn dipyn ar ôl wyth degawd.

Cloddwyr ym mryngaer Pen Dinas, Aberystwyth ym 1934, NPRN:92236 (Hawlfraint y Goron CBHC)

Ychwanegodd Toby Driver: ‘Roedd ail-greu’r olygfa yma o’r 1930au, gan ddefnyddio dillad ac offer dilys, yn her go iawn i bawb a gymerodd ran, ond diolch i gymorth Amgueddfa Ceredigion, ac amynedd y plant, fe gawson ni i gyd ein syfrdanu gan y canlyniad. Roedd yn union fel camu’n ôl mewn amser!’

Dylai unrhyw un sy’n dymuno ymuno â’r Archaeolegwyr Ifanc gysylltu â John Ibbotson drwy Amgueddfa Ceredigion. Gallwch chwilio am y ffotograffau gwreiddiol o’r cloddiad ym Mhen Dinas, Aberystwyth yng nghronfa ddata ar-lein y Comisiwn Brenhinol www.coflein.gov.uk.

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